There are many different things to consider when choosing your leather, and depending on your needs you will know whether to prioritise colour, finish, handfeel or price. Here is a breakdown of the key characteristics of our most popular leathers:
Japanese leathers
Nappa leathers are full grain, semi-aniline, and have been milled to give a natural pebbled finish.
Cedar, Seaweed, and slate are full-grain, full aniline, and have been milled to give a natural pebbled finish.
Ballet is a full-grain, semi-aniline, and have been milled to give a natural pebbled finish.
Italian Leathers
Vogue leathers are full-grain, semi-aniline, and have been milled to give a natural pebbled finish..
Obsidian is a thicker full grain, semi-aniline, and has been milled to give a natural pebbled finish.
Duck egg is full grain, semi-aniline, and has a natural smooth finish.
Suedes are all from Italy or Spain.
New Zealand Leathers
Cognac and Espresso are firmer, full-grain, full aniline leathers and have been plated to give a smooth finish.
Willow Is a firmer, full-grain, semi-aniline leather and has been plated to give a smooth finish.
Tote handles
All tote handles are from the one piece finest Italian Vegetable tanned saddlery leather.
They will never split or tear.
Here is a little more information on some key terms used above:
Full grain means that the surface has not been touched prior to tanning and has to be from a very good raw material as all imperfections will be very obvious. Only the best leathers are full grain, and even the top fashion houses only use full grain leathers in their top tier products.
Vegetable tanning is a method that has been used for thousands of years and uses tannins from bark and leaves of trees like the oak tree. It takes around 4 weeks to achieve finished leather, this long process is part of the reason why vegetable tanned leathers are generally more expensive. It is also a much more environmentally friendly process than chemical tanning is, and if done well this method produces amazing leathers, that age and gain character very well.
Colour
A leather can be coloured using dyes, pigments, or a combination of both.
Full aniline is the name given to leather that has only been dyed and it produces leathers that have amazing depth of colour.
Semi-aniline is the name for leather that has been aniline dyed and then had some pigment applied to the surface of the leather. This is generally done to give a better consistency of colour and to help with colourfastness.
Fully pigmented leathers have the surface completely covered in pigment and the underlying colour can’t be seen through the pigment.
Texture
Leather that has been tanned will have a fairly smooth finish with just a little texture if nothing more is done to it.
A pebbled finish can be achieved in one of two ways. The first involves the leather being milled or tumbled around in a big drum for up to 24 hours. The mechanical action of the skins tumbling and rubbing over each other produces a naturally pebbled finish. The other method is to plate emboss a pebbled pattern into the hide using both heat and pressure. (Other patterns are also produced using this method.)
Milling produces a nicer look but will have lots of variation in the size of the pebbling, as firmer parts of the skin pebble less than softer parts do, whereas embossing will provide an even pebbling across the whole skin.
Very smooth leathers are ironed or plated flat, using both heat and pressure.